Mitsubishi Galant

1. If the scratch superficial also does not mention metal кузовной the panel, restoration of a paint and varnish covering is made extremely simply. For removal of particles of an exfoliating paint and a wax covering slightly rub a defective site with thin grinding paste. Rinse the processed surface with pure water.
2. By means of a small brush fill a scratch with a paint of the same type and colour, as used for colouring of the given panel. Continue to put a paint a layer behind a layer until the scratch bottom will not be made even to a surface of a surrounding paint and varnish covering кузовной panels. Give to a paint полимеризоваться within, at least, two weeks, then carefully polish a transitive zone with application of thin grinding paste. In summary process the restored panel wax.
3. If the scratch has got through a paint and has reached panel metal, having caused corrosion development, regenerative repair should be made on other technology. A penknife scrape out from a scratch bottom порошкообразную a rust, then process the damaged site ингибитором corrosion in order to avoid its development in the future. By means of made of firm rubber or nylon аппликатора fill the damaged area шпаклевкой глянцовочного type. If necessary, that is especially useful at elimination of narrow deep furrows, шпаклевка can be diluted by special solvent. Before шпаклевка will harden in a scratch, wrap up a tip of a finger a soft cotton fabric, moisten it in solvent, and quickly spend along a scratch. As a result, the surface should become slightly bent. Now, after hardening шпаклевки, the processed site can be painted with application described in the first part of the present subsection of technology.

1. At repair of deep dents by a priority becomes вытягивание the deformed surface кузовной panels for the purpose of restoration of its initial form. We will notice, that there is no sense to achieve absolute conformity to the original as it and is unattainable in view of irreversible infringements of internal structure of metal at the moment of blow. Will deduce quite enough deformed surface to the level located on 3 mm below a surface of the surrounding intact part of the panel.

In a case if the dent is superficial, вытягивание it is lost in general by any sense.

2. If it is possible to steal up to the deformed site from a panel underside, it is necessary to try отрихтовать the panel from within, tapping metal a hammer with soft the brisk. Thus to a face sheet of the damaged site it is necessary to press densely wooden брусок for the purpose of repayment of an impulse of blows and in order to avoid excessive выгибания restored metal.
3. If the dent settles down on a two-layer site кузовной panels, or access to last from its return party is impossible for any other reason, it is necessary to change a technique. Насверлите in most strongly deformed areas of a dent some small apertures, then screw in them long саморезы, leaving heads of the last sticking out over a metal surface. Now start to вытягиванию metal, grasping heads of screws самоконтрящимися nippers.
4. At the following stage of processing it is necessary to clear completely of a paint the damaged site and surrounding it for the width approximately 3 sm a panel surface. The given work is better to make by means of a wire or grinding nozzle to an electrodrill. Not less effectively зачистка paints can be executed and manually with emery paper application. The final stage of preparation of a surface to шпаклеванию is загрубление the bared metal of a dent by процарапывания its screw-driver or a file fragment, or drilling of small apertures. The surface roughness raises efficiency of adhesion to it шпаклевочной pastes. Further it is possible to start to шпаклеванию and colouring of the processed site (see more low).

In the absence of access to the back party of the panel of a body for dent percussion, it should be extended by means of a hammer with sliding the brisk. In the deepest place of a dent, or along its border, насверлите or fill small apertures on distance not less than 2.5 sm from each other … … then screw in a hammer rod in an aperture and put it in action. Tap with a usual hammer at dent edge to help metal to accept the initial form. After the termination of this procedure the dent surface should come nearer to the initial contour and approximately on 0.3 sm acts over a surface of surrounding metal. By means of a rough emery paper remove a paint to naked metal. It is possible to make it manually, but the adaptation shown on a photo, will help you to accelerate process. By means of more thin, approximately № 320, an emery paper bring to nothing a paint in radius not less than 2.5 sm round a dent site. After removal of a paint it is better to check up to the touch, than by sight, whether enough the metal surface is equal. Begin to knock a hammer of camber and-or extend hollows there where it is necessary. Clear a restored surface wax or силиконовым a spot remover. Following instructions on packing, mix a pack plastic шпаклевки with a hardener. The mixing proportion is critical and if you break it, шпаклевка will fall asleep too slowly or too quickly (and you will not have time to put it and to give the necessary form). Working quickly not to allow to fall asleep шпаклевке, by means of plastic аппликатора with pressing put it on a metal surface, making sure, that there is a full gearing to metal. Process шпаклевку that it has taken the form, close to the initial form of a site and slightly towered over surrounding surface. Allow шпаклевке to fall asleep to such condition that it could be pressed through only a nail. By means of a file or the adaptation shown on a photo, roughly process шпаклевку. By means of the rough emery paper fixed on a plate or бруске, process шпаклевку that it became smooth and equal. Gradually pass to more and more thin grades of a paper, always using a plate or брусок, and finish processing by number 360 or 400. As a result of processing the hand should not feel border of transition from шпаклевки to naked metal and from naked metal to an old paint. If this purpose is reached, remove a dust and cover the next panels and furnish details. Put some layers of a first coat on a processed surface. Do not spray too much first coat that it did not flow down, and after drawing of each layer let's previous dry up. Usually here the professional pistol-razbryzgivatel is used, but in shops of autospare parts there is on sale a first coat in inexpensive aerosol packing. The first coat will help to reveal defects or scratches. Fill with their polishing paste. Following instructions on packing, process its thin (№ 360 or 400) an emery paper to smoothness. Repeat polishing, putting polishing paste and grinding it until the grounded surface does not become absolutely smooth. Finish polishing by very thin paper (№ 400 or 600) to remove surpluses of a first coat. Wash up a site of processing by water and allow to it to dry up. Use a sticky napkin for full removal of a dust, then put a layer of an external paint. Do not try to wipe or put a wax covering on the given site until the paint will not dry up completely (not less than two weeks).

1. By means of a grinding or wire nozzle to an electrodrill remove from the damaged area and on a site in width about 3 sm round it all paint. Not less effectively work can be executed and manually an emery paper. Having cleared a surface from a paint, it is possible to estimate a damage rate of metal corrosion and to be defined in a question on expediency of performance of repair of the panel (probably, it it will be more reasonable to replace it entirely if it basically is possible). New кузовные panels can be frequently got far not for such big money as it seems, - it is enough to spend couple of days, going round city dismantlings and automobile dumps.
2. Remove from the damaged panel all elements кузовной furnish, except for what can serve as a reference point at restoration of the initial form of the damaged site (for example, facing of block headlights, etc.). Scissors on metal or with the help ножовочного cloths remove pieces of metal all freely dangling, poorly fixed and hopelessly damaged by corrosion. A hammer bend aperture edges inside for the purpose of formation of deepening for placing in it шпаклевочного a material.
3. A wire brush remove from the damaged site порошкообразную a rust. If there is an access to a panel underside, process it round the damaged area ингибитором corrosion.
4. Before to start to шпаклеванию, it is necessary to muffle a hole. Usually it is made by gluing or screwing up to a panel underside in its damaged area of a piece of a tin, мелкоячеистой a wire grid, or an aluminium foil. Reliably having blocked an aperture, it is possible to start to шпаклеванию to the panel and its subsequent colouring (see more low).
5. An optimum material for заглушивания large holes are fiber glass fabric, or мелкоячеистая a plastic grid. Having cut out a piece of a material approaching on the size, get it in a hole and fix внахлест from an underside of the panel lumps шпаклевочной pastes.
6. For заделки narrow holes is better the aluminium foil which is let out in the form of a sticky tape approaches. To remove a protective film enough and to glue a foil from an underside кузовной panels, reliably having muffled an aperture. For the purpose of strengthening the foil can be pasted in some layers.

1. Now the chemical industry brings to attention of buyers the broadest spectrum various кузовных шпаклевок. However for the given type of works is better paste with a hardener in a tube approaches offered complete with sets for repair кузовных panels two-componental шпаклевочная. For achievement of smoothness and correctness of the form of the puttied surface paste should be put flexible rubber or nylon аппликатором.
2. Strictly following instructions of manufacturers (their infringement can lead to incomplete hardening шпаклевочной weights), get mixed up a little шпаклевки on a pure wooden plate, or cardboard sheet. Try to spend a hardener carefully.
3. Аппликатором put the prepared mix on processed (see above) a surface of the damaged site кузовной to the panel. For reception of a correct contour of a deduced surface each dab аппликатором should pass in all length of a restored site. As soon as the form of a restored site of the panel will come nearer to initial, immediately stop drawing шпаклевки as it, stiffening, will begin подлипать to аппликатору, forming lumps and leaving furrows on a processed surface. Continue to put шпаклевку a layer behind a layer with intervals about 20 minutes until level of a surface of a restored site slightly will not tower over surrounding metal of the intact part of the panel.
4. After paste hardening, surplus шпаклевочной weights can be removed by means of a scraper or a file. The stage зашкуривания and polishings further begins. Is better the given work it is carried out by means of a waterproof emery paper with uniform granularity and strong adhesion of an abrasive (it is desirable import manufacture). To begin polishing follows a coarse-grained paper № 40, on progressing reducing granularity to № 400. To achieve adequate planeness of a ground surface a paper it is necessary to turn around бруска from dense rubber, a tree or polyfoam (for convenience the paper can be pasted on брусок). In the course of processing of a surface the paper should be moistened with water regularly and often. The described technology allows to achieve absolute smoothness of a restored surface at the polishing final stage.
5. On termination of polishing the processed site should appear the surrounded ring of the pure bared metal which are coming to an end with gradually coming to naught edge of an intact paint and varnish covering. Rinse the processed site of the panel with pure water, washout from it all abrasive formed during polishing, then carefully dry a surface.
6. From aerosol баллончика sprinkle the processed surface, having covered with its thin layer of a light first coat that will help to reveal all errors committed in the course of polishing. The found out defects then are eliminated by repeated зашпаклевывания. Repeat a polishing stage. Continue to operate the same way until will achieve the demanded form and smoothness of a restored site of the panel. In summary do not forget to rinse the panel with pure water and dry it.
7. Now it is possible to pass to colouring. Work with краскопультом should be made at motionless air in a dry, warm and not dusty premise. If circumstances compel to spend colouring on open air, it is necessary to concern with all gravity a choice of suitable weather conditions. At work indoors, beat a dust, having sprinkled a floor water. If colouring of only separate site of a body is made, cover surrounding intact panels with old newspapers, having fixed their sticky paper tape. Such elements of furnish as the chromeplated decorative strips, door handles, facing of block headlights, etc., at a stage of colouring it is better to remove with кузовной panels.
8. At use of paints delivered in the form of aerosols carefully stir up баллончик, then sprinkle a trial surface, fulfilling technology of colouring. Cover the surface prepared for colouring with a powerful layer of a first coat. The thickness of a covering should be reached at the expense of recurrence of drawing of a paint by thin layers. Not regretting water, polish a prepared surface a fine-grained emery paper № 400. Before drawing of a decorative paint allow to a first coat to dry out completely.
9. Start to put thin layers on the grounded surface a decorative paint. Colouring begin from the centre of a restored site, making a hand with aerosol ballonchikom/kraskopultom circular movements, on a spiral expanding their radius and not stopping until all prepared site will not appear with нахлестом in three-five centimetres is covered by a layer of a fresh paint. Later 10 ч 15 minutes (it is better not later not to damage edge beginning to dry up paints) after drawing of last layer unstick covering surrounding panels of a body a sticky tape and remove newspapers.
10. Definitive polymerisation of a paint occurs after the expiration about two weeks then for smoothing of transition from a fresh paint to old, rub the restored surface with thin polishing paste. In summary process the panel wax.

1. It is necessary to charge performance of repair of the burst plastic components to experts. In a technology basis use of the pine forest-machine for протачивания along a flute crack which then the plastic core from this plastic type keeps within, as a repaired detail is necessary. Further половинки the burst panel are accustomed to drinking with each other by means of the special hair dryer. Surplus of plastic leaves by polishing.
2. Less serious damages can be eliminated own forces of the mechanic-fan by defect filling 2-componental эпоксидным компаундом (the technology is similar applied at шпаклевании the damaged sites metal кузовных panels).
3. At replacement of the damaged plastic component it is necessary to take care of selection of the replaceable panel approaching on colour. For подкрашивания the details made of plastic it is necessary to use special paints and first coats, - ask in shops of automobile accessories and strictly follow instructions of manufacturers.